Our verdict
The only trees for miles in the moor's wild heart, which makes them precious. Do the classic riverside walk from Simonsbath towards Cow Castle: woods first, then open Barle valley wilderness, then the pub — Exmoor's essential half-day.
The beech and conifer woods the Knight family planted around Simonsbath when they bought Exmoor's Royal Forest in 1818 — including Birchcleave, one of England's highest beech woods — dropping from the village to the infant River Barle.
The woods around Simonsbath in the old Royal Forest, open at all times on waymarked paths. Leads on — sheep and ponies everywhere.