Our verdict
The finest wood on Exmoor and arguably in the West Country — old oaks, clear water and moor above, with a walk to fit every pair of legs. Start at Horner hamlet, follow the river as far as ambition allows, and if you can, be here in October when the whole valley turns to bronze.
Eight hundred acres of ancient sessile oak rising from Horner Water to the flanks of Dunkery Beacon, home to five-hundred-year-old trees, sixteen bat species and a national treasury of lichens and mosses. Paths run from easy riverside strolls to full-day climbs onto the moor.
National nature reserve on the Holnicote Estate — one of England's largest ancient oak woods. Dogs on leads; the estate runs ponies and red deer range freely.