Our verdict
Most of the moor is working reserve with no paths, so this is a droves-and-viewpoints visit — but in flood, from the Swell Wood heronry or the Red Hill scarp, it's an astonishing sight.
The RSPB's huge wet-meadow reserve on the Levels — England's largest remaining lowland wet grassland, packed with breeding waders in spring and swans and ducks when it floods.